Review: Ormeggio at The Spit

Ormeggio at The Spit is located only 20 minutes from the CBD yet it manages to evoke a sense of place that feels completely removed from city living. The restaurant is perched on a wharf not far from Mosman and plays host to seafarers, locals and destination diners alike, all drawn by the magnificent views over the entrance to Port Jackson with its gently bobbing boats, white tipped swell and flocks of seabirds gently grazing the surface of the water.

It’s not just the great views that draw diners to Ormeggio at The Spit but also the food by one of Sydney’s top Italian Chefs Alex Pavoni who also heads up city diner Spiedo Restaurant & Bar. The menu is inspired by his home region of Lombardy in Italy and with a la carte and degustation options is great way to while away a sunny afternoon or balmy evening.

The Dining Room

We opted for the six course Menu Creativo with matched wines ($150) which is one of two degustation options offered by the restaurant and we were not disappointed.

The meal began with an aperitivo of a squid ink risotto crisp with cured bonito. Citrus notes were a nice counterbalance for the slightly salted bonito and the savoury rice crisp.

Cured Bonito

The first course was Organic Grass Fed Wagyu Beef Battuta, Oyster Mayonnaise, Burnt Enoki which was an Italian riff on a beef tartare. A fine dice of wagyu beef which had been gently marinated was laid over a silky oyster emulsion with an earthy flavour being supplied by the enoki mushroom and a textural element being supplied by a sprinkling of amaranth.

Wagyu Beef Battuta

Next up was a Tiramisu Of Ling Fish Baccala, Dutch Cream Potato Spuma, Crispy Polenta. The ling had been salted and air dried for two days before being washed off with milk and the Dutch cream potato with its hints of parmesan was so moreish. Paprika and pepper took the place of cinnamon in this gorgeous, savoury play on a tiramisu.

Ravioli Filled With Romanesco Broccoli was sexed up with the addition of fried capers and anchovy butter nicely offset with bitter greens it was a great lead in to the Pan Fried Flounder Fillets, Asparagus, Smoked Tuna and Squid Ink Sauce, Almonds.

The meal reached its crescendo with the Smoked Biodynamic Veal Rump, Vegetable Ash, Toasted Hazelnut Purée, Spring Onion, Radish, Bone Marrow Sauce. The dish was an impeccably conducted symphony of flavour with the veal as the star performer. The meat had been smoked, then cooked sous vide for 4 and a half hours ensuring the flavour of the veal was heightened to balance the smoke. Harmony was provided by crisp shards of New Zealand spinach, earthy vegetable ash, baby parsnip and radish, sweet spring onion and a deliciously nutty hazelnut puree.

Pan Fried Flounder

Veal Rump

A dessert of mixed wild berries, red berries meringue, mascarpone gelato, szechuan pepper yoghurt, warm sabayon provided a suitably light end to the meal.

It would be remiss of me not to mention the wine matches, a range of Australian and Italian wines which included a beautiful Crawford River Rose, a slightly chilled Lombardia Nebbiolo and a Teroldego from Elisabetta Foradori, Italy’s preeminent female wine maker. I’d recommend taking the matched wine option as the wines selected really enhanced the dining experience.

Service is attentive without being overbearing and crucially, the degustation was well timed. Dishes were delivered at a pace leisurely enough to contemplate the dish just consumed but not so long that we had to gaze towards the kitchen in anticipation of the next. The only thing I was left anticipating was my next visit.

Jeremy Bowell dined as a guest of Cardinal Spin and Ormeggio at The Spit

Ormeggio at The Spit
D’Albora Marinas, The Spit,
Mosman NSW 2088

02 9969 4088

http://www.ormeggio.com.au

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Author:Jeremy Bowell

Jeremy Bowell is the founder and editor of Taste Explorer. He also writes for InsideCuisine.com, TheGrapeHunter.com, SoBadSoGood.com and has featured in the Sydney Morning Herald's Good Living section. He is an avid connoisseur of all things food and drink related.